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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.